Pumpkin and Ricotta Gnocchi with Sage Brown Butter and Hazelnuts

Slice 600 g peeled, deseeded pumpkin into 2–3 cm thick pieces. Toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil and some of the 3 g salt reserved for the dough. Roast at 200°C for about 35–45 minutes, until tender with a dry surface. Mash; if watery, stir in a pan over low heat to evaporate excess moisture. Cool completely, then weigh 300 g thick purée; reserve any extra for another use. Drain the ricotta beforehand.

Combine the 300 g cold purée, ricotta, egg yolk, 40 g grated Parmesan, nutmeg, pepper and remaining dough salt. Start with 150 g of the 200 g flour measured for the dough, bringing it together without kneading. The dough may remain slightly tacky. Test a small piece in gently simmering water; if it breaks apart, add some of the reserved 50 g flour and test again. Do not add excess flour merely to eliminate stickiness.

Use the separate 30 g flour to lightly dust the work surface and tray. Divide the dough into four portions, roll into ropes about 1.5–2 cm thick and cut into 2 cm pieces. Add gentle fork ridges if desired. Place in one layer on the floured tray and cook promptly.

Toast the hazelnuts in a dry pan over medium-low heat for 3–4 minutes, then roughly chop. Melt the butter in a light-colored pan over medium heat. Add thoroughly dried sage leaves; remove when crisp. As soon as the milk solids turn light hazelnut brown and smell nutty, remove the pan from the heat. If the color deepens rapidly, transfer the butter to a heatproof container. Discard butter with black solids or a bitter burnt smell. Add lemon juice together with cooking water at the final stage, not directly to very hot fat.

Add the separate 20 g cooking salt to 3 liters of water. Cook the gnocchi in batches in gently simmering water without crowding. Once they float, cook for another 30–60 seconds depending on size; cut one open to check that no raw floury dough remains inside. Reserve 30–45 ml cooking water. Keeping the butter off the heat, carefully add this water and the lemon juice. Lift out the gnocchi with a slotted spoon and gently coat in the sauce over low heat. Serve immediately with the sage, hazelnuts and remaining 30 g Parmesan.